Photographing Polar Auroras

Home

 

Contact

 

Buy the book

 

 

 

Observing Primer

 

Photography Tips

     Rainbows

     Halos

     Mirages

     Lightning

     Auroras

 

Photo Gallery

 

Book Contents

 

Discover Nature    in the Weather

 

 

 

Author Tim Herd

 

Scene & Herd

 

Nature Newswatch

 

 

 

Order autographed copies from the author by sending a check for $26 each (shipping and handling in the USA included) to Tim Herd, 2572 Mountain Road, Bath, PA 18014.

 

 

© Tim Herd

All rights reserved

 

A creased and puckered auroral curtain sheathes the zenith in clear and very cold air (-25° F) on March 24,2001 over Fairbanks, Alaska. A 3-second exposure with a Nikon FM-2 35 mm camera and Nikkor 35mm f/1.4 lens on Kodak Supra 800 print film preserved its stark loveliness. Jan Curtis

 

As a stream of charged particles from the Sun strikes the molecules of the upper atmosphere, it imparts some of its energy to atoms and molecules of nitrogen and oxygen, temporarily elevating them to higher energy levels. As the molecules return to their former states, they release the newly acquired energy as photons of light. The combined release of all these photons causes the glow we call aurora.

 

Photographic film is more sensitive to colors than our eyes, which accounts for more vivid documentations in photographs than our memories.

 

Equipment. A 35 mm SLR camera with a bulb (B) setting for long exposures is best for capturing the auroral essence. Set it on a firm surface or a tripod. Using a shutter release cable will avoid camera movement during long exposures. Fast color slide films (ISO 400 and greater) and Kodak or Fuji emulsions work well.

 

Composure. A wide-angle lens (35mm focal length or less) opened up to full aperture should fill the frame well. Including some of the foreground adds proportion and perspective.

 

Technique. Because it is difficult to assess the brightness of the display for the length of exposures, it is always best to take a several bracketing shots so that at least one may turn out decently. The longer the exposure, the stronger the features and colors will register on the film; however, if the aurora’s form is shifting and changing, a long exposure will only blur things. Strong moonlight and city lights can also wash out your results. If you’re good at estimating comparative brightnesses, the following guide may help:

 

equivalent brightness

suggested exposure

Milky Way

20-30 secs.

thin moonlit cirrus

10 secs.

moonlit cumulus

1-2 secs.

full moonlight

.25 sec.

 

It is always useful to note the following data for future reference: date, time, observing location, direction to aurora, length of exposure, f-stop, focal length, and speed and type of film. © Tim Herd

 

 

 

A great luminous curtain swirls green and gorgeous over Wood Buffalo National Park, Northwest Territories, Canada (60.5° N) very early on September 5, 2003. The night was so dark when the display began that the photographer needed a large flashlight to set up his equipment, but the auroral eddy grew in intensity until it illuminated the entire forest around him. He preserved its portrait with a 30-second exposure on Kodak Ektachrome 100 VS slide film using a 20 mm lens on a tripod-mounted Nikon F11 camera. Mike Grandmaison.