Photographing Halos

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Author Tim Herd

 

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Order autographed copies from the author by sending a check for $26 each (shipping and handling in the USA included) to Tim Herd, 2572 Mountain Road, Bath, PA 18014.

 

 

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The spectacular circumhorizontal arc featured above and on the jacket of the book commanded about a half-hour's worth of attention on June 3, 2006 over northern Idaho with the Sun 63° high. From a dock on Hauser Lake near Post Falls, eyewitnesses watched the vibrant specimen unfold due south as fall streaks of cirrus in the right place at the right time flushed a vivid and full-toned fiery spectrum about 46° wide. The bright broad arc parallels the horizon and forms in ice crystal plates and columns when the Sun is higher than 58° in the sky. Brian Plonka/The Spokesman Review/wPn

 

left: Luminous arches stack and shimmer near Davos, Switzerland on December 20, 2005. From bottom to top, centered on the Sun at 12° elevation: the 22° halo, the gull-winged upper tangent arc, the supralateral arc, all topped by a circumzenithal arc. Appearing inside the 22° halo is a vertical sun pillar, which ends with a faint and very rare v-shaped Moilanen arc, and a portion of the horizontal parhelic circle. Parhelia brighten the sides of the 22° halo. Also easily noticeable in this portrait is the relative dark halo interior compared to its brighter but decreasing intensity of its outer edge. Equipment: Nikon E4500 8 mm,100 ISO, f/7.5 at 1/537 sec. Christian Rixen

Since halos are barely predictable and may appear for mere minutes or just seconds, keeping a ready camera and a notepad is a good idea; good quality photos and notes on the date, time, location and duration (as well as the camera’s aperture, exposure, film type and speed) document halo varieties and occurrences like no other method, and can be used for study and later analysis. And in the case of rare phenomena, your notes may even contribute to better scientific understanding.

Equipment. SLR 35mm camera or digital camera; tripod. A wide-angle lens of 24 or 28mm is good for many displays, but you might also find good uses for a 28-200mm zoom lens and a fisheye lens. Slow fine-grained film of 100 ISO does well for solar and lunar halos, properly light-metered. A polarizing filter increases the contrast between halo and sky and can cut unwanted reflections and glares.

Composure. Unless the cirrostratus cloud is so thick that the light from the Sun or Moon is quite diffuse and subdued, block the Sun or Moon with a leaf, light pole or some other object. This not only protects your eyes, but also avoids camera lens flares, loss of contrast and overexposure problems.

Technique. Read your light meter with the Sun or Moon blocked, and bracket your exposures for a better chance at a superb shot. If the halo display is larger than what you can fit in the frame with your available lens, take a series of overlapping pictures that can be assembled into a montage. Lunar halos need longer exposures; again, bracket your shots. A cable release helps avoid camera motion. © Tim Herd

The sunset flares skyward in suburban Des Moines, Iowa on February 27, 2001, as ice crystal plates lingering in the sky from the previous day's snowfall reflect a column of light upward in a sun pillar. Equipment: Nikon Coolpix 950 digital camera on Auto mode. Stan Richard